A dress watch is a must in every man’s wardrobe. It is the timepiece accessory that one can use at any given occasion. Sleek, elegant and unobtrusive, it is that slender timepiece that slides smoothly under your shirt yet detailed enough to catch an eyeful. More than offering and displaying the artistic and technical expertise of its maker, the watch, whose main function is still simply to tell time, must be of outstanding class in its simplicity. It has to add value rather than take away from the man and his ensemble. VELVET shortlists a few dress watches worth keeping on your hand, and in your closets.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute

Repeater Flying Tourbillon

This timepiece stems from research on two iconic horological complications, and is considered as the eleventh creation in the Hybris Mechanica collection and the first ultra-thin Grand Complication model. Otherwise known as Hybris Mechanica Eleven, it is indeed the slimmest minute repeater in its category at just 7.9 mm thin. It is equipped with an original tourbillon, a high-performance new balance-spring, a peripheral automatic winding system, a retractable single pushbutton, as well as a new minute repeater equipped with a silent-timelapse reduction system.The masterful movement with its consistently ultra-thin proportions is accommodated in a new case inspired by a “knife-shaped” 1907 pocket watch. Of the various precious metals from which it could choose, the manufacturer has opted for white gold because of its excellent acoustic qualities. The bezel, the sides and the tapering lugs are all entirely hand- polished.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5377

Created as extra thin self-winding movement with tourbillon, the movement itself comes in at an impressive 3mm and, housed within a slender 7mm case, the watch easily slides under the cuff. To accomplish this, Breguet devised a peripheral rotor made of platinum that winds in both directions of spin, and the results are impressive from both a technological and aesthetic perspective.The face has a decidedly throwback feel, with its slim Roman numerals, sapphire caseback, case in platinum with a finely fluted caseband, 18-carat gold dial, distinctive hands and bezel-less case. Its straight lugs, modest crown and off-center dial give it a contemporary edge though, and look back to the flamboyance and glamour of Breguet timepieces of the past.

Glashütte PanoLunarTourbillon

This timepiece takes up the sophisticated new look with a 40 mm case in red gold and Panorama Date display to the lower right presents black numerals on an ivory coloured ground, perfectly matched with a warm silver dial catching the observer’s eye with the modernly arranged dial and the filigreed Flying Tourbillon. The characteristic asymmetric design of the Pano timepieces finds the large hour/minute dial positioned to the left of centre. The placement of the dials has been determined in accordance with the divine proportion, otherwise known as the golden ratio, the legendary law of aesthetic harmony that has fascinated artists, musicians and architects throughout history.

Breitling Transocean 38

After more than 55 years in flight, the “contemporary classic” Transocean collection still reflects the spirit of long-distance travel and luxury long-haul aircraft – as admirably embodied in the new Transocean 38. The steel case fitted with a slim bevelled bezel and slender lugs features a 38 mm diameter that is ideal for all wrists. The dial bears applied hour-markers and the gold B initial that used to serve as the Breitling logo. The case-back bears the historical Breitling symbol with its stylised embossed planes. Its case is water-resistant to 100 m (330 ft), equipped with a sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides, and houses a self-winding movement certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – the highest official benchmark in terms of precision and reliability. The Transocean 38 comes with a black or silver dial. It is fitted with an extremely original steel mesh bracelet in tribute to the original models, a perforated bracelet or a leather strap.

Hermès Arceau Automatic

The timepiece with the addition of the date and a slightly smaller diameter of 40mm for both steel and rose gold versions. The design of the Arceau Automatic watch embodies an authentic signature, combining elegance and style, with harmoniously balanced proportions. Designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the Arceau is the most classical of Hermès watches. Inspired by the characteristic elegance of horses, its asymmetric lugs echo the shape and curve of a stirrup. The centre of the opaline silvered dial is stamped with the herringbone motif, while two slender hands sweep around the twelve sloping numerals characterising the Arceau line. The classic and elegant men’s timepiece is driven by the Hermès mechanical manufacture movement H1837 and is available in rose gold with a havana alligator strap and in steel with a black alligator strap.