Pierpaolo Piccioli’s AW17/18 collection at Maison Valentino, was inspired by ecclesiastical garments and the religious portraits of 17th-century painter Francisco de Zurbarán, but also by the prettiest of pagan deities, Venus. Resulting in a collection that was somewhat delicate and refined, filled with emotions. A story of sacred and profane love, played out through the depth of intricacy- merging exquisite lace and applique, which progressed into a mass of detailing, giving it a laid-back romantic vibe.
Guo Pei with Chopard
Guo Pei and Chopard’s AW17/18 collaboration was like no other. The courageous couturier created a collection that was a nod to the old golden days of Hollywood. The times of gravity defying, bold silhouettes, gorgeous gowns and sparkling style. The gowns were complemented by Chopard, with gems in several shades to match the glamorous and colourful looks. Chopard’s Caroline Scheufele incorporated bold stones that are synonymously linked to the East, like Jade, and gems in hues that are important to China, such as red and yellow.
Zuhair Murad’s AW17/18 collection was inspired by the 19th century ‘Gibson Girl’. Where her figure is statuesque, her waist is narrow and her head is carried high: which was a beauty ideal- as a symbol of modernity and empowerment. It blended ethereal embellishment with bold features like slashed necklines and plunging backs, whilst the colour palette was feminine and chic.
Elie Saab’s AW17/18 collection entitle “A Tale Of Fallen Kings” went for a medieval queen style. His regal inspirations drew themselves on historical heritage- who wore their crowns with pride, taking their rightful place on the throne, revealing timeless beauty and elegance. The heavily detailed looks included pearls, sequins, glittering gold sleeves with chic head-pieces and crowns.
Schiaparelli’s AW17/18 collection was definitely for the young at heart, with a light and fresh vibe. The frothy, flirty and very un-wintery couture was inspired by art- the delightful designs were executed with detailings such as brocade, as well as heavy embroidery laid upon chiffon, and pleated tulle. The creative vision came to light, through the vivid use of colours.
Citing the sea as inspiration, Galia Lahav and Sharon Sever paraded a collection of short, sexy cocktail dresses and sweeping gowns for their pretty AW17/18. Amongst the classic subtle colours were splashes of vibrancy, sequins and contrasts. Splashes of coral were a recurring theme throughout the show, adding colour to black gowns, short sequined dresses sparkled red, silver and blue- creating a glamorous collection
Iris van Herpen
Iris van Herpen’s collection was inspired by the nature of air. However, the water element derived from Danish underwater artists- Between Music. Challenging the relationship of our bodies, in a sub aquatic environment where air is absent. With underwater musician presentations on display, it captured the spirit of the wild waters, and the contrast of air and water, between light and darkness.
Iris van Herpen used avant-garde techniques to create rippling patterns on transparent tulle gowns, and pleated organza into a short dress with ruffles. Silver lace was laser-cut to create three-dimensional wave patterns that mimicked the shimmering surface of water.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier went with a winter and après ski-style inspiration for his AW17/18 collection. The creative and cool selection included; winter printed ski jumpers, along with velvet trousers, cropped vests, and bobble hats mixed with statement gowns- creating a distinctive look.
There were witty touches, too, like the bobble hats were worn with many of the evening gowns, including a flowing orange jersey tunic as well as Indian style saris.