Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2015-16
The essence of style and of a cosmopolitan life: the verticality of a New York skyscraper and of the Vendôme column, London’s fantasy and extravagance, Paris’ chic and cultural life and the baroque and light
The essence of style and of a cosmopolitan life: the verticality of a New York skyscraper and of the Vendôme column, London’s fantasy and extravagance, Paris’ chic and cultural life and the baroque and light of Rome all blend in a collection aimed at today’s women.
“Seducing the entire world like the first sun! Failing that only not to get older” – André Breton
Elsa, Lee & Leigh – Early on Elsa Schiaparelli created a daring allure in fashion. Simple lines, a vertical silhouette and a foundation in black and white define absolute elegance. It combines femininity and rigor, both reminiscent of Lee Miller. Masculine tweeds, tartans, culottes and jackets worn over gowns find full resonance in this restrained lexicon.
Such self-restriction is only one facet of Schiaparelli’s creative strength. Quickly, the radiant shocking pink disturbs the original black and white. Schiaparelli embraces colour with passion from its more vivid hues to pastel or subtle tones.
Luxurious materials embellished with vibrant embroideries contrast with shapes that are almost minimalist. Haute Couture savoir-faire reveals its excellence when twisted with Leigh Bowery’s exuberance. The classic sophistication of an Haute Couture piece perfectly translates relevance and desire.
The suns of the place Vendôme illuminate the Théâtre d’Elsa. This imaginary stage – a nod to 1930s Parisian theatres – features shining characters full of sensuality. Schiaparelli’s shoulder line is softly square. A biker jacket in “rhodophane” organza appears almost liquid. Prints inspired by Bérard and Vertès are hand-painted on organdi or silk chiffon. The Schiaparelli Iris shimmers when woven into a golden brocade or is multi-coloured when blossoming out of a patchwork of fur.
Elsa’s obsession for pierced hearts, padlocks, Ursa Major and her ES initials, together with irises and suns is given a new life in this season’s jewellery and clutches.
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