Elisabetta Franchi AW 2016
Suggestions taken from the surrealistic madness of the circus populate the catwalk. Colours and shapes inspired by the magic of the Cirque du Soleil are ironically combined with rigorous gendarmerie details taken from the precious
Suggestions taken from the surrealistic madness of the circus populate the catwalk. Colours and shapes inspired by the magic of the Cirque du Soleil are ironically combined with rigorous gendarmerie details taken from the precious uniforms worn by the bodyguards of Marie Antoinette, the legendary Rose of Versailles. Just like the French heroine, the Elisabetta Franchi woman of the coming season conceals her femininity beneath the severe shapes of this military style, while revealing her secret weapons of seduction in the details.
The shapes of the stage costumes have provided the inspiration for micro-cropped jackets and boleros, which are defined by their large shoulders. Maxi buttons, gold profiling, and golden cords create a stylistic code that is reminiscent of a regimental genre. The forms caress the body, with superskinny or ankle-cropped trousers, and skirts that extend just below the knee, which are rigorously high-waisted nonetheless. The mood is characterized by circus tent-inspired geometric patterns, as well as multi-colour regimental stripes and tartan motifs, in cobalt blue and red lacquer colour combinations. The prints feature numerous animalier proposals, which are made with ecological solutions in order to suggest an aggressive yet animal-friendly mood: the giraffe’s mane and the python’s scales evoke the sophisticated femininity of a true animal tamer.
Rows of fringes, both in gold and regimental style, are a recurring element on many of the garments. A triumph of shimmering lurex creates shining garments that reflect the light, while the more fluid and enveloping fabrics exalt the charm of the female figure.
The shoe collection is dominated by boots: whether in the cuissard version, which once again evoke the style of a military uniform, or the ankle or mid-calf versions, which gently embrace the legs. The wide range of pumps features many of the season’s must-have elements, including fringed heels, stud and eyelet designs, and two-tone colour variants. For the bags, the collection boasts a rich assortment of mini solutions, including bucket bags, shoulder bags, and clutch bags, all of which are defined by the collection’s key elements, like fringes, gold detailing, or prominent colour combinations.
The colour palette has been enriched with intense shades of blue (cobalt and ocean), combined with the now timeless red lacquer. The new entries include a lively orange tangerine and an earnest military green, as well as more natural shades like tobacco, ivory, and honey.
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