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PFW Men AW17 Highlights

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Icosae

The collection you are about to witness, entitled Blood is thicker than water, lies within the footsteps of last summer. We rediscover the Icosae man, stronger, sharper yet delicate and sensitive.

The new Fall/Winter 17 collection is immersed in the stories of bloodlines and explores family ties, a bond stronger than any other but full of conflict.

Taking inspiration from English royalty and Kings’ scandals of abdications to the art paint and costumes of Ainou and African tribes or even from our own experience of brotherhood, we explored family, power games and affiliation.

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Givenchy

For Fall-Winter 2017, Riccardo Tisci used Western American references out of his childhood memories to build a positive Givenchy collection made of signature House codes such as horizontal stripes, stars, embroidered check patterns and graphic colorful prints.

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Valentino

Subtle disruption. Gentle distortion. Defining a man through what he wears and how he wears it. Gentleman. Or rather: gentle, man. Charm as a distinctive sign. Spontaneity that ignores the rules, without struggle.

Observing classicality through the lens of visceral expression, profound essence is captured and altered, as in a painting by Francis Bacon. With a glitch.

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Maison Margiela

Treating the outsider as our protagonist, Maison Margiela calls upon the characters of today’s Beat Generation to join us in peaceful protest. A collection emerges from humble beginnings, with a pure dedication to process and a quiet celebration of the unfinished garment. Artistic intervention disturbs minimalism, accumulating in moments of brutal assemblage.

House codes abound in the season’s individualist approach to daywear, as raw materials from calico to dry cotton, upholstery velvet, distressed tweeds and denim rise to the fore. Nonchalant tailoring with a soft shoulder is constructed from a single cloth, their perfection challenged by displaced topstitching and unfinished prints.