Maison Valentino A/W 2019 men’s collection: Dissolving Shapes and lunar landscapes
For Valentino‘s A/W 2019 men’s collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli explored fluidity. Liquid as a free approach to tailoring.
An idea of a shape, without formalisms, of precision and aplomb, without constraints. Codes that belong to the common imaginary, that are seized of their common appearance. Dissolved, softened, liquefied. The individuality of the one that adopts and adapts that breaks the rules from the inside with an inevitable calm.
Individual pieces were broken down, eased and re-calibrated in monochrome. There was graceful suiting; sleeveless wool jackets worn over coats. Lightly padded raincoats. A longer line on shirting worn underneath double breasted jackets. Rich wool coats with long, scarf collars. Standout were the space-age graphics designed in collaboration with Jun Takahashi of Undercover. His collages, featuring space ships, portraits of Ludwig van Beethoven in the film A Clockwork Orange, flying saucers and lunar landscapes, were used as intarsias, embroideries, jacquards and prints. The season’s standout coat will most likely be a round-shouldered mohair style, covered with Takahashi’s floating, sky-blue spaceships.
For the coming season Piccioli collaborated with the eminent healthy footwear brand Birkenstock on two exclusive styles. Their classic Arizona sandals were shown in Valentino red with tonal buckles and a tonal full leather covered footbed. And in total black with the omnipresent VLTN logo writ large on the side in white.