Pierpaolo Piccioli, for Valentino’s Cruise Collection merges the past and the reassurance of knowledge, that concentrated only his native Rome, circa the 70s. Rome as the symbol of free thoughts, made up of unfettered associations and layers: of cultures, of worlds and of aesthetics.

The designs are relatively laid-back subtle chic, he aims to make Valentino clothes for women to really live in. Of course, there were the precious dresses the house is famous for- some real beauties, too, like a black sequined column picked out with tangy yellow mimosa flowers, and an ivory tulle peasant gown with Art Deco beading.

Elsewhere he got his point across by serving up everyday eclecticism: a ’70s-cut blazer worn with a silk shirt, denim shorts, and fringed, stacked-heel loafers; a poncho jacket and flared jeans; a charcoal grey trouser-suit paired with white trainers.

What made these combinations compelling was his liberal and imaginative use of archival Valentino logos. He called them “bootlegged,” i.e., all mixed up, and even in a market over-saturated with branding, his treatment of them, more like prints than promotion, looked novel and fresh.