Loris Azzaro’s Fall-Winter 2015/16 Couture collection celebrates the merry insouciance, excess, extravagance and taste for surrealism that marked the disco era. The period’s obsession with rhythms is rendered through graphic effects. Prints, embroideries, and crystal decorations enliven the outfits. Vertical stripes act as a leitmotif, a punctuation, and a rupture. Transparencies subtly reveal the feminine body.
A zebra print in hot pink or bright orange lurex sparkles on dresses and long jacquard coats. Appearing in black and white on a sheath dress, that same print is crossed by crystal bands sporting several nuances of gold -from the brightest to the palest- offering a subtle play with light. The jewelled cuffs recall the hedonistic opulence of the 1970’s. On a long dress, a sheath effect contrasts with the rounded volume of a caped back.
The ‘broken lines’ theme continues with a strapless dress whose 3D knitted bustier is shaped with grosgrain ribbons, outlining the bust, and contrasting with a pleated skirt in lacquered chiffon whose irregular ruffles create the impression of moving waves.
Symbolising luxury, voluptuousness and refinement, sensual flowers adorn a vintage-style fabric. Resplendent peonies, orchids, iris and dahlias mingle with a cockatoo pattern. Used on a pleated skirt, this print is cut by the white bands that appear within the folds when the skirt is in movement. The pattern reappears on the fringes of the Vendôme suede clutch.
The jumpsuits are decorated with embroidery. Short dresses are embellished with Lemarié feather flowers in contrasting colors. Little A-line dresses are worn with lurex thigh-high boots.
The crepe de Chine wedding dress is decorated with crystal bands and sports a lace cape in the back. Silicone and neoprene blend with traditional couture techniques, creating an unforgettable daydream. With their subtle sheen, embroideries and crystals have all the fantasy of a night at Studio 54.